Posts Tagged ‘Travel’

Delicious NYC

Monday, September 10th, 2012

I have been eating as much as possible and it seems to me to be the right thing, as it’s all odd immigrant childhood foods, undeniable and irresistible and full of history as well as calories.



Made many trips out in NYC this week for these tempting things, like al jjiggae, which is a hot spicy stew made from veiny pollack roe sacs which float in the red soup looking ethereal and alien. It’s really AI, that is what I picture, these weird beings kept in water to divine the future. I can’t tell my fortune from these fish eggs but I ate enough of them beneath a massive waterfall with a white grand piano on top. No one played the piano as it was too early in the day.



Also went to a fancy Japanese bakery for rice cakes with red bean paste and even splurged on a gorgeous box of white peach bean paste bon bons. The box is almost gone now, after several days of cooing and pondering each gooey piece. The woman at the bakery said “20 days” and handed me the heavy box of rice peach wonders then said “1 or 2 days” as she packed up the individual cakes which were way too many for one person. What did she know?



Near the bakery there’s an underground izakaya with pollack roe spaghetti which I fantasized about while eating the good yaki gyoza and drinking a big “grass” of sake. They sell it by the “grass”, which I don’t know why but seeing that misspelling made me laugh just as much as I would if I was a kid. “grass”. Some things never go out of style. Or “styre”.



Paris Medical Museum

Tuesday, August 28th, 2012

In Paris, there’s a little hidden museum, not famous really, but spectacular and special all the same. It silently displays its artifacts without docents or headsets, explaining the exhibit to each visitor as they walk through.



There’s no fanfare, no big billboards promoting its existence, no guest books to sign and definitely no guest book to sign on leaving. There’s nothing when you get to the end. Just a door to get out, and by the time you’re finished, you just want to get out, at least I wanted to, and it was less than 0 degrees outside.



I don’t know the name for the place, but it’s located in the busy medical school somewhat near Serge Gainsbourg’s old house, near that intense, emotional where the really fancy shoe stores are. I only know Paris by where the shoe and cheese places are. This neighborhood isn’t so much cheese as it is shoes. Some of the shoes will make you cry, and the prices will make you walk away, so it’s fairly safe for that reason.



The medical museum is open to visitors but you have to know that to want to go there. It’s free, I believe, or they didn’t charge anything that day to go in. There were no other visitors and the quiet halls filled with different sized people in jars, silent in their death, their afflictions, diseases, accidents, wounds – everything that they were in life that got them here immortalized in formaldehyde. Many of the jars looked like they needed to be topped up, as they had miniscule leaks, previously unseen air stealing the embryonic fluid each floated in for eternity.



Lots and lots of babies – conjoined twins but also many more – births that had never happened or happened then quickly or slowly led being housed in this place, as if they were preserved in amber.



As well as real people, there were lots of wax people, old models of ravaged faces and bodies, and you’d see the pain in their eyes, even a hundred years later, as if the wax took an impression of that too.



Tired

Tuesday, August 14th, 2012

I get tired sometimes, with early call times for work and long commutes that can be measured in flights not drives. It’s better if I don’t drive, as I have had my eyes open for long enough that purple iridescent blotches appear in my line of sight. The purple creates even more blind spots, blocking out entire vehicles, big trucks swerving into my lane suddenly invisible.



When I get this way, then I am too tired to sleep, and that is when the magic truly happens. My eyes are permanently red and I sustain a permanent midnight within, internal clock striking 12 in a constant beat. The makeup required for each particular job gets layered onto itself in sticky patches. I feel like the underside of a grade schooler’s desk, the back of a seat in an old theatre, covered with traces of old gum and dried up soda.



Violet triangles raise under my eyes, as if they are trying to point me to a bed somewhere. My face is sore to the touch, my neck is stiff and cracks when I turn my head. I drink all the water I can hold but it does nothing but make me always have to run to the bathroom.



Hallucinations follow this state of eternal wakefulness, and if I am with someone else who is also tired, we compete in a folie a’deux – a shared madness. Once when on an ill-planned road trip with another comic, we drove all night on interstates with nothing but acidic truck stop coffee to sustain us. It had been many days without sleep and as we flew by the trucks in our path, we both witnessed white horses changing lanes in front of us, and to this we said only



‘did you see that?’



‘yes.’



‘maybe we should go to sleep.’



Early

Thursday, July 19th, 2012

There isn’t much I hate more than getting up early, yet I do it with constancy that belies my true feeling. I come to consciousness a mess, face swollen, mind deeply entrenched still in a dream, eyes a rabbity red that looks painful because it is. I require great quantities of caffiene and will fill my bucket with anything bearing the promise of making me come alive – acidic Folgers or delicious energy tiramisu in a glass, Whynatte or the odd extreme sport beverage found at truck stops.



I was dreading this morning, as I had been looking at all my scheduling information, the ubiquitous sheets printed and emailed and texted to me all over the world by my deft and ingenious helpers, and they had apologetically included a 4 am pickup time for a 6:15 am flight. Of course its nothing anyone must apologize for.



I am up early because I have to be somewhere. I want someone to want me to be somewhere and I love that someone is paid to tell me where and when. I will want this until the end of my days, I am sure, no matter how early those days may start.



But this one was an early one, and the plane sat on the tarmac for hours after it was to take off, the 6:15am takeoff merely becoming a fantasy that there is a way to control time, when time merely takes it’s time and there is nothing that can be done if its time hasn’t come.



The jobs would wait a bit, and there was a brief scramble for rental cars and some fairly complicated logistics. It seems I can do my part of getting up out of bed and being tired and furious all day but just because my part is done doesn’t mean much after all. I am only one small fragment of this experience.



No matter how much I will the plane to move beneath me, it will only go when a number of other decisions that are not mine to make are made. Weather cares nothing for my lateness, my trivial problems belittled by the sheer might of wind and clouds and rain. Mechanical problems trump my own desire for order. On time means nothing if you lack the ability to arrive.



What I could control perhaps is my unreasonable rage at the idea that I must allow for setbacks. My anger that seethes and undulates beneath my false calm face need not bubble and boil over into the lives of innocents. It is no atrocity to come later than anticipated. There is no difference in life whether it is lived here or there. Life will happen still, even without your best laid plans. I know this to my deepest point, the thick heart of me, yet for whatever reason, I can’t apply it.



Swim

Wednesday, May 16th, 2012

The hour that gives me the most difficulty is 2pm.



I am good in the mornings. The sunrise is ever hopeful, the strange way you can tell light is new, the way it comes at you, shy through the trees. Yes I love mornings, because it’s another chance, you get another stab at it, whatever it is. Nothing bad has occurred really in the early hours to scar me forever or make me hate mornings, not yet anyway. I usually have slept well and I am prepared. I look forward to the coming day, and maybe fondly backward at the night before. The day begins and there’s an optimism that I associate with waking, a half full glass I anticipate and drink down all the way in one gulp like freshly squeezed orange juice with some sparkling water mixed in. AM is citrusy and bubbly and just squirted from the fruit and that is glorious and makes my mouth water. It’s the best, the opening credits of the movie. Nothing has happened yet and I am ready for it to. I am glad for it to.



The only time this isn’t true is when I have stayed up all night, which is rare, I mean, I can count the times I have done this in my relatively long lifetime on one hand. That is terrible, to stay up all night, and this I have never done without some type of drug, an upper, which gives you a burst of good feeling right at the beginning, and then pays you back bad feeling with interest, robbing you of maybe a week’s worth of joy and patience and the accepting of things and peace and reason and that unnamed force that gets you out of bed to put on makeup and dress up in something nice and listen to music and dance and sing and think that anything is possible and a good day is coming on. All that for about 15 minutes of shaky bliss at the start, I don’t think it’s a fair exchange.



There’s also a guilt there too, if you haven’t been to bed, and you are looking at everyone who has, and you watch them with your bloodshot eyes as they are getting up and getting their coffee and going to work with big white cups with brown recycled paper rings to keep them from burning their hands and their clothes look just put on and they have the morning face that you wish you had, one that had gotten to bed at a decent hour and dreamed and woke untroubled and now is in front of you, and the sanity of it is mocking the insanity of yours. The streets get more and more crowded and you feel more and more alone and even though you may be surrounded it’s like an island or a raft is surrounded by water and there’s not a drop to drink.



Sometimes you can erase that horror show of being up all night with breakfast, trick yourself with the hot black medicine of strong coffee and the crisp, butter comfort of toast, but it’s only while you’re eating and maybe a very, very short time after. The healing power of omelettes and pancakes and waffles only lasts for as long as its on the table. After it’s in you it doesn’t do much good. I don’t stay up all night anymore. I can’t take it. This is not for me.



I love the morning too much to sully it. it’s important to me to feel like there’s a newness and a comeuppance and a day that hasn’t happened yet that is gonna happen and you never know, you never know. I get excited about the morning like I am a puppy, jumping and batting my paws all for nothing and for no reason other than I get to go around the sun yet once more.



The night is also the same way, as the night dawns much like the day. the sun goes away to reveal the moon herself and there is much delight as she is bright and sometimes a sliver, sometimes full and round, much like me, changing and growing and shrinking and different always and every shape of her has a name and distinct attributes.



The night is often when my workday begins, comedians and musicians and waiters and bartenders and chefs and emergency room doctors and nurses and drug dealers even and police and firemen and all of us on the graveyard shift who ensure the nourishment and care and protection, physical and otherwise, of the majority of the working people who make the world turn day after day.



I feel safe in the velvet cloak of night and I come alive when I go to work and see my friends and play in clubs and it’s always been exciting to welcome dusk and the rites of dinner and drinks that go along with it and that moment when you can let go of the day, stop white knuckling the afternoon and know that everything is going to be fine, and even if it isn’t soon it will all be over and the bed is a delicious promise that is always kept (unless you happen to do those bad drugs).



The night is good to me and good for me and I feel safe and dangerous at once. I am a night person and a morning person and then that leaves the afternoon which is a problem.



2pm is the fearsome middle I struggle with.



I’m a strong swimmer, having been on swim teams as a child, always smelling a little of chlorine, with dry tight skin and choppy braids that dried into hard gel waves. There was also an issue of mold in my locker. My existence was mostly wet and then you mix that with dark, you get mold. It’s a fact.



I can’t say I loved swimming but I did it because it was the right thing at the time and I was fairly good at it and there was a simple kind of reward involved because I grew up in a cold climate and the water of the pool was often slightly warmer than the air even though it seemed like it would be colder and you didn’t want go in initially as the threat of being colder even still was almost too much to bear but if you actually did it and jumped right in and braved the bracing shock of ice in your life, in a moment you’d be fine and warm and swimming and the fear would melt with the cold and you’d be alright. I swam for that small victory as well as other minor wins like having a place to go in an important somewhat distracted hurry right after school. “I can’t. I have practice. Yeah sorry, I can’t.” which to me kind of meant, “I belong somewhere. I belong to something. I belong.”



I remember that Culture Club video where beautiful Boy George is singing and climbing up the ladder out of the pool and I thought that he and I were the same and that song played in my head from beginning to end as I swam and at the point when he would come out of the pool I would come out of the pool to encourage our sameness.



I did have to stop going to the pool when my body started to change, and grownups in the shallow end would give me looks and then more. One old man, who was teaching a tiny girl to swim, she was maybe 4 or 5, just a baby really and too young to be in the big adult pool with the serious and sporty thick black lines painted on the bottom to guide the face down butterfly stroke swimmers in their lanes and rope and floating Styrofoam borders that were supposed to keep everyone not on the swim team out – crossed into illegal pool territory and actually grabbed me between my legs as I crawled my continuous laps that my allegiance to the swim team claimed as its due and lifted me whole out of the water struggling and flopping, exclaiming “I caught a fish! I caught a fish!” and the little new swimmer laughed and clapped as the man rudely and unashamedly shoved his fingers inside me. If he did this to me, a small stranger, I don’t want to think about what he did to that little girl. I don’t want to think of it.



I swam maybe one or two or three times after that but I eventually quit the team, because it never felt right to go back in the pool. It felt scary and ugly and I started to really notice when people would spit in the porcelain rim around the perimeter of the blue tile and see the spidery clots of hair that would collect in the filters and on the wet ground and I suddenly got fed up with the chlorine and the mucus of others and athlete’s foot and the child molesters that all these foul things represented and I refused to go and took up cigarettes instead.



But before all that, I was a strong swimmer, as our coach used to say, whistle and stopwatch hanging from his neck, looking down at me. I forgot his name, which I cannot believe now, because it was so important then. From the ages of 8 to 12, my schoolbag always contained a large plastic ziplock containing a cold and damp athletic orange swimming suit and an old rubber cap that squeezed my temples into a lifelong tendency toward migraine when it was on me, and stuck to itself and stank unreasonably when it was off. I swim good for a long while but then I get tired, unexpected and instant, a wore down feeling that is inescapable as water and it usually happens when I am right in the middle of the pool, where I am surrounded by the wore down and the water and the only thing left to do is drown.



That is what 2pm feels like to me.



It’s not the beginning. It’s nowhere near the end. What can I do? The sunlight that seemed charmed and uplifting in the hours before now seems ordinary and relentless. Time stretches out before me and behind me and I can’t make sense of it and I wonder what I can do until night falls to make me whole again. There’s no running from the middle of the day. The broad daylight offers no escape. You can’t start drinking or indulging in anything then because then that would mean you have a PROBLEM and I would do anything to avoid having a PROBLEM so I just suffer mid-days as if it is my cross to bear. I wait to be resurrected and it always happens and that’s not the concern, it’s the waiting that bothers me. It’s the waiting that is the cruelty of crucifixion. It takes so goddamned long to die.



I have the worst time of this midday malady in hotel rooms, as usually if I am working somewhere on the road, my day is far emptier, even more than if I am at home. Hotel rooms are bad places in my opinion, as most of my friends who have died thus far have done it in those temporary spaces that are meant to contain us only for a day or two. They have checked into hotels and never checked out and that seems like the worst thing to me, to have to die there and essentially stay there forever. That’s hell.



At 2pm in a hotel room I am lost and I don’t know where to turn or what to do. The hour oppresses me and there’s no escaping from it. The only way out is through, and through means minutes and then hours and the sky can’t darken soon enough to save me. I haven’t found a solution to this other than to complain and allow the existential dread to overwhelm me and crash over me like a wave and at times I can write and possibly describe the desolation and desperation I feel which helps because when I put words to a thing, it helps me own the thing and understand the thing. It’s like I am eating the thing or making love to the thing, letting the thing inside me and have its way and become a part of me.



At 2pm, perhaps I should go swimming. Most hotels have pools. I don’t think this is just by chance. I think the pools must be there for me.



Eating on Planes

Thursday, May 10th, 2012

There is a hunger felt on planes that feels irrational and uncontrollable. What is it about flying high in the sky in shiny metal tubes that makes my stomach growl like a beast? Does altitude affect blood sugar or is that I am so high off the ground I am trying to root myself by experiencing the most basic and true earthly pleasure of eating? When I am offered the rare opportunity for first or business class I feel less desperate. The meal carts and uncorked bottles of fine wine put my starving mind at ease. I don’t even really eat or drink that much then. The fact that it is there satiates me and I will even turn down the freshly baked cookies to celebrate the occasion of landing. They are greasy and overly sweet and taste of the odd chemicals needed for them to harden convincingly in the on board oven at 30,000 feet.



In coach class, food is rarely served, which is a sad thing. I remember when the tiny trays with all the compartments were passed to you on nearly every flight, but I am old enough to have witnessed smoking on flights, entire smoking sections of planes where people actually smoked and did so for the whole time we were off the ground. I can’t believe that they did this now but I saw it with my own eyes back then.



You can now buy food on flights, but this seems uncouth to me, in the cashless cabins. I don’t like what is on offer. The breads are dry and the meats are questionable and the chips and nuts would just dehydrate you further. Handing your credit card over in exchange for a shrinkwrapped box of unperishables seems almost as bad as bringing on a bag of fast food purchased at the terminal, the fried items leaking oil through the paper, the unmistakable smell permeating your clothes and skin. then you have the problem of hamburger hands, and you can’t wash that away in the airplane lavatory.



If I bring food from home there is the inevitable fight to get them through TSA screening, prompting philosophical arguments on what is and what is not a gel or liquid. What would you consider almond butter anyway? Also I never get to do this because I almost always fly early mornings, and that dark blue hour is usually too rushed to consider moving things from big bags into little bags.



I just starve on the plane, because eating in the presence of strangers feels filthy and debauched. I’ve seen some gross eating on planes and I don’t want to participate in that. I will eat when I get there. Trust me.



On one of my very first flights to Los Angeles, I sat next to a painfully thin man who had seemingly never cut his beard. His face was young but his hair was all grey. He wore ill-fitting old clothes that looked like they were not his but items haphazardly assembled into an outfit from a box of lost and found objects. Too many jackets for one person. He held a wrinkled newspaper article between his long fingers and worried it like it was beads.



I kept looking at the paper trying to discern what was on it, as the constant touching of his hands had worn down the newsprint. He carried an equally wrinkled brown paper bag and at some point during the flight he pulled what I assumed was an apple from the bag but I realized after he started eating it that it was not an apple but actually an onion. The crisp, white flesh looked the same but it smelled sharp and acrid and alarming. He pulled pieces of onion skin from his teeth with his clawlike fingernails and left wet fingerprints on the newspaper article, which darkened the font enough so that I could make it out.  I wanted to scream when I read it but I didn’t. I just sat there not knowing what to do but inhale onion fumes and be scared.



The article was about a man who had been stalking Michael J. Fox at his home and the criminal case against him and his appearance in court. The article had been continued on another page but that part had either not been cut out or it had been lost somewhere in transit.



There was a picture of Michael J. Fox, likely a promotional shot from family ties but the photo of the stalker must have been on the continuing page. I wondered if this man was the stalker and I am fairly sure he was. The cold blank insanity I could feel emanating from his skin was proof enough. I didn’t need to see the picture from the article to know that. When the plane touched the ground he leapt out of his seat and ran to the front of the cabin. The flight attendants told him to sit down and he held the bag with the remains of the onion and the article in his shaking hands and stayed standing. The cabin door was opened and he threw himself out of it and down the jetway as if he were being shot from a cannon, but these were days before 9/11, and so they just let him go.



Hobnob

Wednesday, April 4th, 2012

Im in London and it’s cold, so very cold I don’t know how anyone can stand it. It’s the kind of chill that would break your ears off. I have gloves in my bag but I use my hands too much to put them on for any length of time so essentially they are useless. Other than the weather, I love London and I could have a ploughman’s lunch sandwich for every meal for the rest of my days if I had to.



Also the cookie selection is off the chain, so to speak. They are called biscuits here, which isn’t the only thing that sets them apart. There’s a subtlety of flavor that I cannot get enough of, truly. It’s not just sweet. A depth exists within the sweet, which is at turns part salty, part grainy – a fullness of taste that doesn’t exist in the united states. They love a biscuit here, and I had been urged by an Englishman I know well to bring back packages of chocolate Hobnobs and custard creams.



I wouldn’t normally, as I hate to bring anything back from anywhere for anyone, as I go everywhere all the time and if I did this, I would do nothing else, but he works on my very old (older than me, but not ridden as much) vintage motorcycle for free and even comes to my house to do it, so with much gratitude, I bought him a big selection – chocolate and dark chocolate and plain. Hopefully they will pass through customs unscathed. Hopefully they will last a night or three with me in a barren hotel room in Shepherd’s Bush uneaten. That’s the challenge, to not eat all of them in my room alone, nothing but me and the bed and the biscuits and the bitter cold outside, too frosty to consider anything but lying under the covers, maybe with the plain hobnobs for company. Perhaps he wouldn’t miss them. He did ask for chocolate after all.



I had bought him a package of chocolate hobnobs last night, on arrival, at the teeming with customers Morrison’s across the street, which is the equivalent of Jon’s market in la – not Von’s – Jon’s – the off brand Von’s with all sorts of Korean ingredients and items of interest to the non-white shopper – but with the insufferable jetlag and the loneliness of the long distance traveler, they were gone by morning.



I texted him in fury – how could he allow me to purchase him such a delectable treat knowing full well I’d never be able to resist them? I was surprised myself, my own greed and intense, insufferable hunger outweighing good sense and default fear and loathing of carbohydrates. He told me to be careful, that the biscuits were evil and I agree with him. They are evil because I already have decided between the last paragraph and this one to open the package of plain hobnobs.



Ok I have stopped writing to eat two plain Hobnobs. That’s not bad is it? To give a gift to a talented mechanic of a package of cookies with 2 missing? It’s not my fault, it is the cookie’s – or biscuit’s doing. They’re oat based, which never digests well, and I will see fully formed oats later in my toilet future. I wonder if someone will be able to tell my fortune from these oats. I am sowing some wild oats over here. There’s another style of biscuit called ‘digestive’, which doesn’t sound good, but is so good. I think they should change the name, but then folks wouldn’t know what to ask for. They taste like those cookies you give infants when they are teething. I only know that because I used to be a Sunday school teacher/unpaid babysitter and ate quite a few sleeves of those when the infants in my care refused them. They are delicious dunked in tea, which I wouldn’t normally do, and which I am fairly opposed to because it breaks up the bind of flour and water and sugar if its not eaten within a fraction of a second, but for biscuits originating from this cold island on the other side of the atlantic, I am prepared to make a rare exception.



If I lived in London I would eat only cheese and pickle sandwiches (ploughman’s lunch) and biscuits and that’s not good for anyone even said ploughman, but the food in Britain, despite what anyone will admit to, is really fucking delicious. I’d even go so far as to say it’s my favorite, and I am including the british style Indian and Chinese and indonesian cuisine that you can’t even really get in America. People eat good here, even if its humble scraps from Morrison’s or that weird Chinese take-away that looks less like a restaurant and more like a veterinarian’s office, with nothing but a receptionist at a big white desk/counter with no seats and no visible kitchen, just a menu and foil containers with white cardboard lids. Mmmmm. I am thinking I might eat all those Hobnobs. They’re plain, and he wanted chocolate.



hobnobs